My Bicycle
Cleansers and Polishes My Bicycle
May 12, 2009 | 
Author One of the cleansers needed for proper bicycle cleaning is an ammonia and water solution for cleaning dirt and removing greasy fingerprints. If using a household cleanser such as 409, Fantastik, or Top Job, they will leave a soapy film that will need rinsing. Window-cleaning compounds clean as well and do not leave a film behind.
For cleaning bearings, drive train components and any other heavily greased or oily components, choose between either mineral spirits or non-toxic biodegradable solvents (such as citrus-based solvents.) These are the environmentally correct alternative to gasoline and kerosene. If using mineral spirits, avoid excess contact with skin, eyes, and fumes by wearing rubber gloves, safety goggles, and by working in a well ventilated area. Mineral spirits and citrus-based solvents leave an oily film and are not suitable as a last preparation before assembling a press fit. Drying time (of mineral spirits or biodegradable solvents) in confined areas such as inside chains, freewheels, derailleur and brake pivots, is quite slow and generally is aided by blowing with compressed air. If using a biodegradable solvent, remember that once it is contaminated with oil or grease it is no longer environmentally friendly.
For certain uses, a more heavy duty solvent (such as acetone) is needed. Use acetone or rubbing alcohol when an oil-free surface is required (press fits, braking surfaces). Use acetone on extremely stubborn dry grease. Both acetone and alcohol are highly flammable and volatile, so do not use them around flames or high heat sources (no smoking). Avoid skin and eye exposure, and keep fumes to a minimum by disposing of soaked rags promptly in a fire-safe self-closing metal bucket. Alcohol is far more environmentally friendly than acetone. There are no biodegradable-type solvents that perform the same function as these two compounds.
Wax or polish is used to improve the appearance of paint jobs and to protect them. Most automotive waxes are suitable for bicycles. Wax should be applied to clean surfaces with light rubbing. After it dries it should be wiped off with a soft cloth. Check the label of any automotive product before using it on the painted surface of a bicycle. Test products of uncertain suitability on the bottom of the bottom-bracket shell.
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Lubricants Oil for your Bicycle
Oil is used on threads, derailleur pivots, brake pivots, lever pivots, the chain, inside freewheels and inside internally-geared multispeed hubs.
Not all oils are equally suitable for bicycle use. The oil needs to be resistant to accumulating grit, durable to exposure to the elements, and light enough to penetrate into tight areas. These characteristics outweigh the significance of any more technical considerations, such as the type of oil base or whether Teflon is part of the formula. Oils that are specifically suitable to bicycle use include:
- Phil Wood Tenacious Oil
- Triflow
- Bullshot
- Superlube
- Campagnolo
- Allsop
- Finish Line
- Pedros
- Lube Wax
The oils at the top of this list are generally more suited to use in wet conditions while oils that appear lower down on the list are more suitable for use in dry, dusty conditions.
Popular oils that are specifically unsuitable for most bicycle applications include:
- WD40
- Sewing machine or gun oil
- 3-in-1 oil
- Motor oil
Method of application is very important with oils. Aerosols are environmentally unfriendly and usually lead to excessive application. The only exception to the problem of excessive application is with spray lubricants that are designed to “dry” in a matter of minutes after application (such as Finish Line and Allsop oils), but these may be the worst offenders environmentally. In general, oils used in external applications should be used sparingly to avoid dripping and dirt accumulation, and excesses should always be wiped off immediately. Overall, the best form of application is from drip applicators. They are economical to use as well, because waste is limited.
In addition to their value as lubrication, oils are also used to facilitate disassembling frozen threaded components. Special penetrating oils perform this function best. Triflow, Allsop, and some other bicycle oils are somewhat effective for penetration.
Manufacturers of internally-geared hubs recommend special oils that are generally unsuitable for use elsewhere on the bike. Sturmey Archer Cycle Oil is one of these, but a suitable replacement would be 10- weight motor oil.
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Lubricants Grease for your Bicycle
Not all greases are suitable for bicycle use. Bicycle bearings operate in a relatively low temperature range, so grease designed for automotive use often does not become effective at bicycle operating temperatures. Greases made specifically for bicycle use include Phil Wood, Bullshot, Var, Shimano, Finish Line, Pedros and Campagnolo. The best automotive grease is a light grade of Lubriplate.
Grease failure could come at any time. Factory original greases are often of the lowest quality, and also are applied in very limited or erratic quantities. Frames are often inadequately cleaned at the factory, so bottom-bracket and headset grease is often contaminated with abrasives even before the bike has been ridden. For these reasons it is difficult to project the normal time or miles between bearing overhauls. As a soft rule of thumb, 2000-3000 miles or two to three years of generally fair-weather riding should make a bike ready for an overhaul. The best method to determine whether grease is overdue for replacement is inspection. See table below, for causes and evidence of grease failure.
The container and applicator of grease is as important as the quality. Open tubs invite contamination; application from open tubs is messy. Grease is best used in squeeze tubes or grease guns.
Whether greasing a thread, insertion, or bearing, an ample quantity of grease will reduce likelihood of drying and moisture contamination. Wipe excesses away when assembly is complete.
Grease should be treated like any other unnatural substance that can penetrate the skin. Minimize exposure or avoid it entirely by wearing disposable latex painter’s gloves. Clean hands when exposure is over.
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